Chaining down motor mounts

[Mr Stubs]

This is a must do mod for the rigs that are running dual cases and a FROR cross member.

I did this mod in a few hours in the driveway. I first took a spare set of mounts and welded the chain to them while they were out of the truck. I wanted to make sure that I had a good weld (not much room in the truck)

Disassemble the motor mounts and weld the chain to the top cap. This will ensure that heat doesn't affect the rubber on the mounts.





Fully assembled, ready to go in the truck.




I used a engine hoist to lift the motor wile it was still in the truck. This allowed enough room to take the mounts out whole. On the driver side I did have to unbolt the water inlet tube from the alternator bracket to give enough room to pull out and replace the mount.

Theses where my old stock mounts without being chained down. You can see that the torque from the gear reduction was beginning to tear them.







The new mounts where put back in and the chain was laid down on the frame rail and welded. Remember that if you have EFI to unplug the battery.

[raydouble]

Nice, looks good.

[WATRD]

May I translate this for the main site?

[Mr Stubs]

Originally Posted by WATRD

May I translate this for the main site?

Sure, this and the axle shave thread are for that exact reason.

I remember what it was like trying to figure out this stuff when I had no clue as to what it even was let lone how to do it.

[two4four2one]

That applies if you are using factory motor mounts, correct? I have the FROR crossmember, dual cases with 4.7's in the rear case and custom made motor mounts that use *cough* jeep *cough* leaf spring bushings and chains are not necessary.

[WATRD]

Excellent. How would you like to be credited in the articles?

[WATRD]

Preserved on the main site: Chaining Motor Mounts | Northwest Toys

Thanks!

[sigman]

Not that I think this will ever effect me, I am curious why this mod is needed???

[Mr Stubs]

Dual cases create a lot of torque through gear multiplication. This results in motor/drive-train twist.

Stock motor and t-case mounts (especially ones that are 20+ years old) can not hold up to this type of abuse. You need to limit the amount of twist via strap (chain) or other method to keep the motor from breaking it's mounts and spinning in the engine compartment.

The chain is the easiest and cheapest way that I know. Others replace the mounts with better aftermarket ones (like seen here down a bit in this post DavezOffRoadPerformance.com • View topic - 22R/22RE Rem Engine & gaskets ) or use a 1/2" grade 8 bolt (as seen here Lame attempt at some motor mount tech. - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board )

[sigman]

Thanks Stubs. I really like understanding things even if I don't ever plan on that type of thing.